Karakoram is a mountain range northwest to Himalaya Mountain Range and is home to four 8000er mountains in the world and the second highest peak in the world K2 at 8611m. There are total 25 peaks over 7000m and 41 peaks over 6500m in the core area of Karakoram. It is the most glaciated place on earth outside of the polar regions. Karakoram is one of the best places to see big mountains and big glaciers in the world.

Shaksgam Valley Trek

North of Karakoram refers to the China side of the range mainly including the Trans-Karakoram Tract of Shaksgam Valley, one of the least-explored places in the world. This article is about trekking and traveling information of Shaksgam Valley and Karakoram North. North of Karakoram is only a small size of the whole Karakoram Range but it provides a different wilderness experience and similar views of four different 8000ers and other peaks. Shaksgam river runs through Shaksgam Valley, the river is also called Keleqing or Kelechen River. South to Shaksgam River lie the 8000m mountains and their glaciers. This part of Karakoram may have the most concentrated views of mountains and glaciers in this region.

Shaksgam Valley is located between Karakoram and Aghil Range. To get to K2 base camp and the other three 8000ers one has to go through the Shaksgam Valley. Shaksgam Valley is home to many glaciers in a short range including total 10 glaciers ranging from 20 to 30km including the longest glacier of China Yinsugaiti. All the glaciers feed into Shaksgam River that goes into Yarkand River, a main river from Karakoram.

Shaksgam Valley trek starts from a village and goes over the Aghil Pass before drop down to Shaksgam River Valley, where stunning views of Karakoram north are located. Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II are two other 8000ers in Karakoram. From Shaksgam it provides better views of these mountains than from its south side in Baltistan in Pakistan. From Shaksgam Valley one can also see the big Gasherbrum Glacier. A trekking tour in Shaksgam Valley also provides chance to explore the end of Gasherbrum Glacier of its crevasses and seracs.

To do a trek to the north of Karakoram to K2 base camp and Shaksgam Valley, it takes not only time to plan but also determination. Lower part of the valley was used by local nomads however upper part of the valley and the side valleys have seen few human traces. It is officially inhabited places where even explorations have only limited to the lower and middle part of the valley north to Teram Kangri Glacier.

Highlights of Karakoram North Trek

The main highlights of Karakoram North of Shaksgam Valley are big mountains and amazing glaciers and its complete wilderness.

K2, or Chogori

K2 is the second highest mountain on earth at 8611-m after Mt. Everest. It is also called Chogori in Balti and Turkic. The name is said from Tajik language meaning "big and sublime". K2 is considered a difficult and dangerous mountain to climb with only less than 400 people ever reached its summit (before 2023). K2 is visible from its south in Baltistan as well as from its north side in China from Shaksgam Valley. A trekking trip to Karakoram North provides chance to see this mountain from its north base camp. K2 North BC is located in the northern valley of K2. The usually called "Italian Camp" or "Korean Camp" is located above the usual K2 BC and from there can have direct view of K2 northface.

K2 North

Gasherbrum I and II, Broad Peak

Gasherbrum I (8080m), Gasherbrum II(8034m) and Broad Peak(8051m) are all located by the border between Pakistan and China southeast to K2. From Shaksgam Valley by north of Karakoram we can see all three 8000ers and also mountains of Gasherbrum III and IV that are close to 8000m. Gasherbrum literally means "Beautiful Mountain" in local Balti language.

Gasherbrum

Glaciers

Glaciers including Gasherbrum Glacier, Singhi Glacier(Staghar), Udok Glacier, Teram Kangri Glacier, etc in the upper Shaksgam Valley are the untouched glaciers in Karakoram. Comparing to the much bigger glaciers such as Hisar, Biafo, Siachen or Baltoro Glaciers the glaciers in Shaksgam Valley are smaller but also super beautiful. In Shaksgam there is also the largest glacier in China the Yinsugaiti Glacier.

Glaciers in Shaksgam Valley

Shaksgam Valley

The Shaksgam Valley consists of many good views of glaciers and big mountains.Gasherbrum BC is located in the middle range of Shaksgam Valley. From Gasherbrum BC one can see K2 and Gasherbrum peaks from east side and have relatively easy access to Gasherbrum Glaciers. Udok Camp is located by the middle/upper range of Shaksgam Valley. Udok Camp. Teram Kangri Camp is located in the upper range of Shaksgam Valley.It is the furthest explorers have ever been in Shaksgam Valley. Teram Kangri Glacier is listed as one of the most beautiful glaciers in China. This part of Karakoram has no further information available.

Shaksgam Valley

How to get to Karakoram North/ Shaksgam Valley

Kashgar is the stopover city for a Karakoram North - Shaksgam Valley Trek. From Kashgar to Mazar it is 500km drive on good road G219, the Xinzang Road (Xinjiang - Tibet Highway) via Kargilik County. Mazar is the border patrol where every hiker has to go through in order to go further to Shaksgam Valley. From Mazar we follow the Yarkand River down and the drive will be on smaller mountain road for another 50km to Kurul(Yilik), the village where the K2 North Shaksgam Valley trek begins.

Between Kashgar and Urumqi there are flights on a daily bases. Please note the whole province of Xinjiang is a huge place in China. From anywhere to get to Xinjiang in general takes a long time even by flight. To give an idea of how far it is: from Shanghai fly to Urumqi it takes around 4.5 to 5 hours and from Urumqi fly to Kashgar it takes around 2 hours.

A small but new road is planned to be built from lower part of Shaksgam Valley by the river junction with Yarkand and all the way to middle range of Shaksgam Valley to the usual Chinese base camp of K2. It is still under construction and some estimate it will be finished within the next year or so (2024). This new road is an extension of the road that is between Karakoram Highway and Xinjiang- Tibet highway, that goes over the Gai Jia Ke road pass by 4800m and drop down to Yarkand River and goes up to Yolk (Kurul) and connects G219 at Mazar.

Kashgar is one of the main cities in province of Xinjiang and one of the most important cities of Uyghur people. Kashgar is also an important city on the ancient Silk Road, connecting traditional Han China to other parts of Central Asian, Persia and more. In Kashgar there are places to buy food and re-supply.

Shaksgam/Karakoram North Trekking Season

The best trekking season of Shaksgam Valley to the north of Karakoram to K2 base camp and Gasherbrum base camp are in general in April. May, June and September, October. Summer is July and August, that usually we see rain and flood that may make the crossing of rivers very dangerous. Winter is from November to the next March when snow accumulation may be too much, making the trekking too difficult. Although winter is definitely an option for Shaksgam Valley North Karakoram Trek if cold condition is not an issue for you.

Permits and Registration

Anyone who goes to Shaksgam Valley will need permits and registration from local authorities. These permits include military permit, border permit. These permits can be applied for you by travel companies in China. All travelers that go into the Shaksgam Valley will need to submit their travel plan and have the travel plan specified on the application for the permit. No individuals or independent traveler are allowed to go into Shaksgam without permits. Everyone has to go through a company. For foreigners it is the same only that it takes longer time. All applications should be down at least 1 month prior to your travel date. Shaksgam Valley has been closed to visitors for total 4 year since 2019 and is now (2023) open to foreigners.

Planning Ideas

The trek to Shaksgam is rather straightforward. From Yolk, the trekking starting point it is two days walking to the 4800-m Aghil Pass and then drop down to Shaksgam Valley. From there go to the south you get to Gasherbrum base camp and trek further from there to explore the glaciers and higher to Urdok Glacier or Teram Kangri Glacier. From base of Aghil Pass to go west you will get to K2 North base camp and Yinsugaiti Glacier. Both ways you start and end by this point. Teram Kangri Glacier is by far the furthest place trekkers ever get to and we have nearly zero record of exploration on Yinsugaiti Glacier.

The usual plan for Karakoram North - Shaksgam Valley Trek starts from Yilik (Kurul) at 3500m and walk for 45km follow side river of Yarkand and over the Aghil Pass at 4800m and then drop down to the base at Shaksgam River at No.1 Hongliutan at 4000m.

From Shaksgam River at No.1 Hongliutan to south to Gasherbrum base camp it is around 30km total. From Gasherbrum base camp continue southwards for another 40km one gets to Teram Kangri Glacier. Few has down this trek. From Gasherbrum base camp some choose to do short day treks into the glacier or above to higher ground to gain panoramic views of the 8000ers including Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak and K2. And then the trek goes back to No.1 Hongliutan.

From Shaksgam River at No.1 Hongliutan to west to K2 North base camp is the second part of Shaksgam Valley Trek. From No.1 Hongliutan to Hongyintan, the usual Chinese base camp of K2 is total 33km. The Chinese base camp of K2 is called Yinhongtan. From Yinhongtan it is single way 15km to the Italian Camp of K2. And the the trek goes back to the base of Aghil by Shaksgam River at No.1 Hongliutan.

Some people only go to the K2 base camp and then goes back while some people also go to Gasherbrum base camp to explore its glaciers, making the trip longer. Either way the trek goes to every part of Shaksgam Valley two times, making the trek total 156km long or 216km long or even longer. There are by far two popular plans of Shaksgam Valley Trek. One only goes to K2 base camp that usually takes around 2 weeks and the other also include the trek to Gasherbrum base camp for additional 30km+30km that usually takes around 3 weeks

Trekking in Shaksgam Valley

Karakoram North Detailed Trekking Information and Tips

Terrain and Trails

Trek in North Karakoram in Shaksgam Valley involves one high pass Aghil at 4800m. The rest of the trek is in river valley, mainly in Shaksgam Valley along the river except the excursion trek up to base camps or into glaciers. The river valleys have flat and gradual terrain. The trails are used by former nomads and the trekking is in open river valleys of Aghil Valley and Shaksgam Valley. There are no permanent trails in Shaksgam Valley due to the possible change of river course each year. Total walking distance is between 150km and 220km.

High Altitude

The trekking is mainly between 3500m by Yilik and 4800m by Aghil Pass. For the first few days you have the chance of getting mountain sickness but once you acclimate it is fine. The rest of the trek in Shaksgam Valley the elevation is always around 4000m. If you walk further into K2 base camp, it gets over 4000m.

Crossing Rivers

The terrain of Shaksgam Valley is for most of the time friendly in terms of trekking. A big issue is river-crossing during the trek. River crossing is inevitable while trekking in Shaksgam Valley. One needs to cross the Shaksgam River more than one time in order to continue the trek either to K2 north base camp or to Gasherbrum base camp. Using a camel is necessary while crossing the rivers because the Shaksgam River is big and flows fast. It is definitely necessary to use camels while crossing the rivers. It is okay to walk through a river (usually a side river) when the water is no higher than your knees and you are recommended to always do this with other people and not by yourself only.

Food

Food is usually arranged when you go with a company. This is also to save the trouble preparing it by yourself. A usually used menu for food while trekking is as follows.

Breakfast:
• Either one of Bread, local fried bread, soup noodle;
• Either four of fried eggs or boiled eggs, sausages, peanuts, pickles, plain rice porridge;
• Honey or fruit jam;
• Coffee, milk, tea, sugar.

Lunch:
• Lunch is packed snacks. Normally you will not stop to make lunch but rather pre-made or simply pack snacks for lunch. Lunch includes 3 to 6 items of the following: fried local bread, biscuits, chocolate, boiled eggs, sausages, dried Tofu, sweets and other snacks.

Dinner:
• Either one of rice, pilaf, noodles;
• Either 4 to 6 of the following: chicken, stewed beef, stir-fried meat, sweet and sour meat , potato, cabbage, radish, broccoli, cauliflower, celery, tomato, chili, beans, aubergine, black mushroom, etc;
• You will have at least one dish with meat and normally with 5 people on one table.
• There may also be fruit upon request.

Camping and Campsites

Fixed Campsites

When you look at maps and planning for the camping places for Shaksgam Valley Trek and will usually find out it is difficult to follow your ideas on where to camp after talking with people who have done this trek. To go with a company for North Karakoram Trek will save you a lot of trouble with the beauracracy but will also leave you with limited flexibility on trip planning. Even if a company promised you of the planned camping sites in Shaksgam Valley the camel team will still usually have a strong say on where to camp due to access to water source, food for camel. Normally the camel team use fixed camps so you will know where are the camp sites even though it may not make sense in terms of walking distance for each day for example some days you find it very long while some days you find it very short. But by the end you still do this trip within the agreed number of days without trouble.

High Camps above BCs

All campsites are used by former hikers and no risks of flood, landslide. For the camping above Gasherbrum BC and above K2 Yinhongtan BC normally one needs to carry things up since the camels can’t get up there due to difficult trails. If one needs porterage from local camels people above BC, then this is better to be talked and planned before hand or at least you should know it costs extra to have someone to carry your load up higher to the high camps if you wish to camp at the high camps. Normally in an arranged tour, the extra night/nights above BCs will be arranged before hand but usually there will involve carrying up the overnight gears and food up to the high camps so it is better to make this clear while signing up a trek to Shaksgam Valley.

Porterage

The Camels

Treks into Shaksgam Valley and the whole Karakoram North won’t be possible without camels and camel people. Camel is the only pack animal available here in north Karakoram. All gears and food are carried by camels. While crossing the rivers people ride camels. When someone is injured, ill or can’t walk then riding a camel is possible while trekking in Shaksgam.

Riding a camel feels much safer than riding a horse for a camels is usually larger than a horse in size and a camel walks relatively steady. For Shaksgam Valley Trek for a lot of the time while walking in river valley one can ride a camel, except going up or down the Aghil Pass when it’s steep and when you go up the glacier or to the high camps above BCs when the terrain is too risky for camels. And of course riding a camel will cost you extra money but it is an interesting experience riding camels. Using a camel while crossing the rivers will not cost you extra money when you go with a company in an arranged tour, that is usually included in the costing.

Camel Team of K2 North Expedition

Camel Team

Camel people are usually local Uyghur people. Many of them only speak basic Chinese. It is helpful when you have someone else in the team who can communicate with the local camel team. Please do make sure when you use service from a company, that you will need someone in the team who can communicate with camel people.

When you use extra service from the camels or from the camel people, do have a written contract when you reach an agreement. Normally issues will be solved when money is paid. Due to uncertainty in an expedition trip such as Shaksgam Valley, there are unexpectations in such trekking trip that may involve extra service from the camel team. Camel team usually has their own schedule of where to set camp and when to start each day.

Suggested Packing List

• 1 big well-packed pack or duffel bag, 1 day pack, rain cover for the packs,
• Sun hat, warm-keeping hat, Gloves, socks, hairband, sunglasses,
• Quick-dry shirts, quick-dry pants, outdoor jacket, outdoor pants, fleece, down jackets,
• Raincoat/umbrella, gators, knee-protector(optional),
• Hiking boots, campsite shoes, water hiking shoes,
• Flasks, walking poles, headlamp and batteries, dry bags,
• Sun lotion, facial care, lip oil,
• Sleeping bag (comfort temperature -10C or lower), sleeping mat,
• Toiletries, rubbish bags, toilet paper, wet wipes, etc.
• GPS, first-aid kit, personal stove and pot,
• Personal medications,
• Personal snacks.